Guides & Instructors

Alpine Guides

Guiding on Mont Blanc Photo: © Thomas Chatfield

British Mountain Guides/IFMGA

Many years of climbing and mountaineering experience are required to join the BMG as a trainee candidate. The Guides' training scheme meets the standards laid down by the European Guides Commission (EGC) and is ratified by The International Federation of Mountain Guiding Associations (IFMGA), formerly referred to as the Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagne (UIAGM). It takes a minimum of three years to attain full membership of the BMG/IFMGA. This covers UK summer and winter mountaineering and Alpine guiding and skiing. Only IFMGA guides or BMG aspirant members under the supervision of an IFMGA guide, are permitted to operate in the Alps... [read more] at the BMG website.

The Jagged Globe guides who will climb with you in the Alps are dedicated mountaineers with an intimate knowledge of the regions where we base our courses. As many of them also lead our expeditions, they will be able to advise you on your long-term expedition and mountaineering goals.

Below are the key guides on our Summer Alpine Courses. Each course will have its own Course Director who will be responsible for its smooth running. Additional guides will work with each Course Director, as required.

Andy Owen BMG IFMGA
Andy Owen has been a regular member of our Alpine Course instructor team since his days as an Aspirant Guide and now works for the duration of the summer on Jagged Globe courses. Andy is also one of our key Guides in Scotland, typically working on our more technical Snow and Ice Climbing courses. He is one of our most popular guides, with an outgoing and cheerful personality and is a pleasure to be with in the hills. His experience extends far beyond the Alps, to South America where he has climbed Aconcagua several times, and the Himalaya, where he has led Jagged Globe trips to Ama Dablam and Khumbu Climber.
Head of Course: Ski Haute Route, Oberland Ski Tour, Introductory Ski Mountaineering, Ski Gran Paradiso
Course Guide/Instructor: Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne

Caroline Ogden UIAGM Mountain and Ski Guide since 2002. Caroline qualified as Guide in New Zealand. She is now a member of the British Mountain Guides Association. She also holds NZ instructor association qualifications in Rock Climbing and Mountaineering.
Caroline Ogden hails from Anglesey in North Wales, but lives for much of the year in New Zealand, where she works in the winter as a Ski Guide, doing a mixture of Heli-skiing, day-guiding and ski-mountaineering. Caroline has also guided in the New Zealand summer on Mount Cook. Her twenty years of climbing and mountaineering experience, has been gained in many ranges all over the world, and she has recently led expeditions for Jagged Globe to Kilimanjaro, Khumbu Climber and Ama Dablam. Caroline is one of our regular guides in the Alps and we look forward to her delighting our course participants again in 2009.

Marty Beare NZMG IFMGA
Marty was born in Northern Ireland but is resident in New Zeland for most of the year as the Chief Guide for Aspiring Guides Mountaineering, our New Zealand-based partners. In 2008, Marty will be guiding on Jagged Globe Alpine Courses throughout the summer. Marty has an impressive personal mountaineering CV, which includes the 2nd ascent of Deprivation, a hard alpine route on Mount Hunter in Alaska, first put up by Mark Twight and Scott Backes. In 2007, with friends he made a 2nd ascent attempt on the West Face of Changabang, the route first climbed by Brits, Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker and immortalised in the book 'The Shining Mountain'. Marty guided on Ama Dablam for Jagged Globe in 2008.

Julie-Ann Clyma IFMGA
A dual British/Swiss national, Julie-Ann lives in Leysin, Switzerland and has extensive experience and knowledge of the Alps. She has been climbing since 1980 and qualified as a guide in 2002. Julie-Ann is renowned for her frequent overseas expeditions. To date she has been on over 20 expeditions to high altitude mountains in Asia, North and South America. These have included many first ascents, which she has written about in magazines such as Climb and Climber. Julie-Ann is working on two special 'women friendly' Alpine Introduction courses again in 2009. If you would like to be inspired, then join her in Arolla.

Jim Kerr BMG IFMGA
A fully qualified mountain guide for nearly twenty years, Jim climbs mainly in Europe, with trips to Peru, Bolivia, Nepal, Canada and rock climbing in France, Italy, Spain, Sinai and North America. He is a past trainer and assessor for the British Mountain Guides Association and a regular Course Director and guide on our summer Alpine Courses.

Mac Mackay BMG IFMGA
Born in Inverness, Scotland, Mac Mackay is currently the President of the British Mountain Guides Association. He is a regular Course Director on Jagged Globe Alpine Courses and Scottish Winter Courses and has led numerous expeditions for us. Mac is a ski teacher (ISIA) who also holds Alpine/Nordic qualifications (DSV/BASI). He is also a member of the British Safety Council.

Graham McMahon BMG IFMGA
Graham has been climbing for nearly twenty-five years and has been involved with Jagged Globe in one way or another for over ten years now. Graham is also an MIC, based in North Wales, where he still lives for part of the year. He qualified as a British Mountain Guide in 1997 and works each summer in the Alps, as well as leading expeditions further afield and still rock climbing to a high standard. Graham has led previous Jagged Globe teams in Nepal and on Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan.

Paul Farmer BMG IFMGA
Paul Farmer has been guiding since 1988 in Europe, Canada, New Zealand, Antarctica and the Greater Ranges. He is an IFMGA Guide who has been involved with Jagged Globe Scottish Winter Courses and Alpine Courses for many years. He has also led expeditions for us, most recently to the summit of Ama Dablam. Paul will be course directing for us again this summer.

Pelle Bagewitz IFMGA
Born in Sweden, thesedays Pelle is based in the Chamonix Valley and guides for Jagged Globe each summer on our Alpine Courses. When not climbing or skiing, Pelle is a keen surfer and spends a couple of months each year searching for waves in Central America and Mauritius.

John Falkiner NZMG IFMGA
Based in Verbier for the last 30 years, John Falkiner has been on skiing and climbing adventures all over the world, including Australia, New Zealand, North America, Russia, India, Tibet, Norway and Lebanon. John has been guiding on Jagged Globe Summer Alpine Courses and our Via Ferrata courses for many years.

Tomaz Jakofcic IFMGA
An IFMGA Guide from Slovenia, Tomaz started climbing at age 15. Since then he has climbed over 900 alpine routes, with many world-class first ascents in the Greater Ranges. His CV reads like a dream list, and includes ascents in the Himalayas of the NE Ridge of Dhaulagiri (8,167m), alpine-style new routes on Gyachung Kang (7,952 m) and Siguang Ri (7,308m) and the first alpine style ascent of 'Eternal Flame' on the Trango Tower in the Karakoram. In recent years, Tomaz has focussed his personal climbing efforts in Patagonia "probably because they have excellent food and wine down there", with three summits of Fitz Roy, all via different routes, and new alpine-style routes on Almirante Nieto -Eol and the North Tower of Paine. In the Alps, Tomaz has climbed many of the modern hard classics, including the Croz Spur on the Grandes Jorasses, Divine Providence - reckoned to be the hardest route to the summit of Mont Blanc and the tenuous ice climb, Beyond Good and Evil on the Pelerins.
Head of Course: Slovenian Ice, Zermatt 4000ers

Mara Larson - Jagged Globe's Representative in the Alps

Mara Larson is our Alpine Courses representative, looking after the interest of our clients in Alps. If you have any problems whilst you are in the Alps, you have the support of the office here in the UK, as well as Mara on the ground. Mara has worked for Jagged Globe as our Base Camp Manager on Everest since 2003 and adds a wealth of experience and organisational capability to our summer Alpine Courses. In Spring 2007 she made her first climb into the 'Death Zone', when she took time off from her base camp duties and had a quick jaunt up to the South Col on Everest.

UK Instructors

The Association of Mountaineering Instructors

The AMI consists of holders of either the Mountain Instructors Award (MIA) or Mountain Instructors Certificate (MIC). The MIA relates to UK summer mountaineering and rock climbing. The next stage up is the MIC, which, in addition to the summer skills, includes UK winter mountaineering. These skills are readily transferable to mountain ranges elsewhere... [read more] at the AMI website.

Here is a selection of the key personalities on our Scottish Winter Courses and Rock Climbing and Scrambling Courses:

Ed Chard MIC
For the 2009 Scottish Winter Courses season, Ed Chard takes over from Dave Walsh as our Senior Course Director, as Dave will be enjoying his well-earned retirement. Ed holds the Mountaineering Instructor Certificate (MIC) and is on the committee of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI). He has been a key personality on our Scottish Winter Courses an since 2002, is a superb instructor and great fun to be with on the hill. Ed has also led numerous expeditions for Jagged Globe in Asia, Africa, South America, North America and Europe. These include expeditions to Mera and Island Peak, Khumbu Climber, Stok Kangri, Huascaran and Alpamayo.
Course Director: Introductory Winter Mountaineering, Winter Mountaineering, UK Private Guiding (Scottish Winter), Introductory Long Weekend, Snow & Ice Climbing

Adele Pennington MIC
Adele is a full-time expedition leader and instructor for Jagged Globe. She regularly advises course participants on the right choice of course, as well as instructing in Scotland each winter. Adele has a huge amount of personal mountaineering experience, including ascents of Everest, Manaslu (first British woman), Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam and Denali. She has led many Jagged Globe expeditions, including Kilimanjaro, Mera Peak, Khumbu Climber, Bolivian Climber, Huascaran, Lhakpa Ri and Cotopaxi. Her particular passion though is Scottish Winter Mountaineering and her enthusiasm for this is nothing short of infectious.
Course Guide/Instructor: UK Private Guiding (Scottish Winter)

Andy Owen BMG IFMGA
As well as being one of our main guides in the Alps, Andy Owen is also one of our key people in Scotland, normally focussed on our Snow and Ice Climbing courses. Anyone that has climbed with Andy knows how much fun he is to be out on the hill with, whatever the weather! Andy has also led a number of expeditions for Jagged Globe and in autumn 2008 is leading a Mera Peak team.
Head of Course: Ski Haute Route, Oberland Ski Tour, Introductory Ski Mountaineering, Ski Gran Paradiso
Course Guide/Instructor: Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne

Mungo Ross MIC
Mungo has been a freelance mountaineering instructor for over 30 years; he also has a wealth of experience leading groups in the Greater Ranges. Mungo has led many expeditions for Jagged Globe, including Aconcagua, Huascaran, Ecuador Volcanoes, Khan Tengri, Kilimanjaro, Khumbu Climber, Rolwaling Summits, Mera and Island Peak and Stok Kangri. He is a member of our core Scottish Winter Courses instructor team.

Tim Blakemore MIC BMG Trainee
Tim has a varied background, including working with the British Antarctic Survey and many seasons guiding in Glencoe, on Ben Nevis and on the Isle of Skye. Tim has made first ascents in Antarctica, Ben Nevis (in winter) and Glencoe in both summer and winter. He has led many trips for Jagged Globe, including expeditions to Ecuador, Kilimanjaro, Rwenzori Mountains and Mera Peak. He is a familiar face instructing each season on our Scottish Winter Courses.

Dave Hanna ML Winter
Dave has been working for us in Scotland for many years and lives in Ballachulish, near to where our courses are based. He is also a popular expedition leader and has led expeditions for us to Nepal, Ecuador, Kilimanjaro, Stok Kangri and Bolivian Climber. Dave also looks after the stores for our Scottish Winter Courses.

Sam Leary MIC
Sam has over 20 years' experience of mountaineering, working extensively in Wales and Scotland and with trips further afield to America, Africa and South America. She is a very active climber both in summer and winter and has first ascents on the sea cliffs and in the mountains of the UK. Sam works on our Rock Climbing Courses and on our Scottish Winter Courses.

Andy Chapman MIC
Andy Chapman is an instructor on our Scottish Winter Courses and Rock Climbing courses. He has led many expeditions for Jagged Globe, including Vinson, Lhakpa Ri, Ecuador Volcanoes, Mera and Island Peak, Kilimanjaro and Khan Tengri. In 2007 Andy had a particularly successful trip to Peru, with our teams summiting Huascaran and Alpamayo under his determined leadership.

David Haygarth MIC
David has been associated with Jagged Globe since 2002. He has regularly instructed on the Scottish Winter Courses and has led several expeditions including Bolivian Climber, Ecuador Volcanoes, Atlas Ascents and Kilimanjaro. He has led first ascents in the Tien Shan and remains a keen mountaineer and climber. In 2008 he will be leading an Adventureworks expedition to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.

Ski Instructors

All of our Alpine ski guides hold the International Mountain Guides carnet (IFMGA). They are expert skiers with the mountaineering judgement and instructional skills to ensure that each member safely achieves their full potential. Our Off Piste Courses are staffed by a combination of Guides and Ski Instructors. The main personnel on our skiing courses are as follows:

Jim Blyth BMG IFMGA
The Director of our Alpine Ski Mountaineering Programme is Jim Blyth. A fully qualified IFMGA guide and a member of the British Association of Mountain Guides, Jim's specialisations include ski mountaineering, ice climbing and expedition leading. Jim lives in France throughout the year and is a fluent French speaker with a good working knowledge of German.
Leader report: Introductory Ski Mountaineering (2001).
Course Director: Off Piste Improvers - Tignes, Gavarnie Ice Master, Ski Haute Route, Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne, Ski Gran Paradiso, Slovenian Ice, Off Piste Perfection - Verbier, Pyrenean Ice - Gavarnie, Introductory Ski Mountaineering, Alpine Ice - La Grave, Chamonix Ice Long Weekend, Oberland Ski Tour, Off Piste Beginners - The 3 Valleys
Head of Course: Ski Japan, Ski Miage Weekend, Ski Chamonix Day Tours, Ski Morocco, Ski Haute Maurienne

Andy Owen BMG IFMGA
Andy Owen has been a regular member of our Alpine Course instructor team since his days as an Aspirant Guide and now works for the duration of the summer on Jagged Globe courses. For 2009 Andy will be one of our key Guides on our Alpine Ice courses and our Ski Mountaineering. He is one of our most popular guides, with an outgoing and cheerful personality and is a pleasure to be with in the hills. His experience extends far beyond the Alps, to South America where he has climbed Aconcagua several times, and the Himalaya, where he has led Jagged Globe trips to Ama Dablam and Khumbu Climber.
Head of Course: Ski Haute Route, Oberland Ski Tour, Introductory Ski Mountaineering, Ski Gran Paradiso
Course Guide/Instructor: Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne

Rick Marchant BMG IFMGA
Rick is a fully qualified IFMGA guide and has been a resident of the Chamonix Valley for many years. He is a regular face on our Alpine Ice Courses and on our ski mountaineering programme. Rick has worked for the British Antarctic Survey and has guided many of the famous peaks in South America, including Alpamayo, Huascaran and Pisco in Peru, Aconcagua in Argentina and Illimani in Bolivia. Most recently, he led a successful Ama Dablam expedition. Rick is fluent in both French and Spanish.
Head of Course: Alpine Ice - Chamonix/Cogne

Simon Christy BASI Coach
Simon is a British Association of Snowsport Instructors (BASI) coach and trainer and has many seasons under his belt. He is based in Courchevel throughout the season and is a gifted teacher and instructor on all of our off-piste skiing courses in the three valleys, Tignes and Verbier. Simon will help improve your skiing technique - guaranteed!
Head of Course: Off Piste Beginners - The 3 Valleys, Off Piste Improvers - Tignes, Off Piste Perfection - Verbier

Philippe Terrettaz BASI Coach
Local expert, Philippe Terrettaz, a fluent English speaking off-piste ski guide and instructor will accompany Simon Christy on our Off-piste Perfection course.